Sunday, August 20, 2006

Leaving Ulaanbaatar

Toninght I will take the train to China. I only could get a ticket to the border, but will continue from there by bus tomorrow morning, when I arrive. Train tickets are always much harder to get then bus tickets. I will leave together with Mayuko, from Japan. She takes the same train to the border, and continues by sleeper bus to Beijing. My plan is to go to Pingyao, an old Ming-dynasty town, which I had to skip on my way up, due to lack of time. Hopefully I will be able to reach it within the next two days.
Last night in Ulaanbaatar was fun, hanging out at the Grand Khaan cafe, where many trendy Mongolians and Westerners meet with local families and business people. A place for everybody, with live music every night. Last night's band played a mix of jazzy covers and Mongolian rock. The night before was a performance of a traditional Mongolian orchestra with throat singers, all dressed up in silk and felt. Some of the volunteers of the camp are still here, so I hang out with them mostly.
Ulaanbaatar is a strange city. Soviet-style architecture mixed with Buddhist temples and roads full of 4-wheel drive jeeps. The roads in Mongolia are the worst of any country I've ever visited. Some roads are so bad, that drivers prefer to leave the road and just drive across the steppe, creating dusty tracks which change into pools of mud after the rain.
Still, after spending two weeks in this lost country, I will leave with a sentimental feeling. It has been great to experience the Mongolian way of life, drinking airak (fermented goat's milk), eating sun-dried cheese crust, and lots of meat. The big sky, the green steppes with herds of horses, camels, goats and sheep will always be a great memory. I will miss the beautiful people, with their dark sun-beaten skin and hair like a horse's tail.

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