Tuesday, August 01, 2006

Beijing

Arrived early yesterday morning in gray and rainy Beijing. Only now I realize that it had not rained at all anywhere I went, except for my very first day in China, when I entered in Hainan, and that was only in the morning. Here in Beijing it rained all day, and now, the second day again a torrential downpour of typhoon proportions, with water gushing down, flooding streets, and blowing away umbrellas.
Had some trouble finding a place to stay. First choice (of Lonely Planet's recommendation) had disappeared, nobody had heard of it, and I was sure to be at the exact address, at the East gate of the Worker's Stadium. Admittedly a bit strange location for a Youth Hostel, so I opted for the second choice, not too far away. The rain was coming down so hard, I had to stop for shelter under the big umbrella of the Stadium's parking lot attendant. After a while, a cab came by to drop someone of, so I toook the opportunity and stepped in. Unfortunately the cabby had the greatest trouble finding the You Yi Hostel, even after asking for directions and phoning the place. Finally reached it, but the meter was already at 20 Yuan, sigh! Ok, it's only 2 euros, but I got used to paying no more than 1 Yuan for a bus ride and 5 or 6 for a taxi. The streets where flooded ankle deep, so my plastic sandals from Chengdu where again very useful.
The single rooms in this place looked a bit drab, so I opted for a dorm room (4 beds), which also saved me money, of course (70 vs. 180 Yuan per night). I dropped my stuff and went out to look for the Mongolian embassy, to apply for my visa. It was easy to find, but had just closed at 11:00. I was a few minutes too late, shit!
So, I went to explored downtown Beijing with my newly bought umbrella.
Tianamen Square was flooded as well, with rain and tourists alike. The old city just south of it was a big mess. Virtually all streets boarded up, buildings being demolished and the gaping holes prepared for a shiny new Beijing for the 2008 Olympics (I guess). That's basically going on everywhere in Beijing. It's one big construction site. Not very attractive, especially with this kind of weather. Wading through pools of mud and trash everywhere.
To cross a road on foot, even at a zebra crossing, is a hazardous undertaking. Motorist don't give a shit about pedestrians here, and you have to jump to escape horning cars trying to run you over. Even at a green light, turning traffic just keeps going and forces it's way through the crowd trying to cross. Imagine the scene, in the pouring rain, with water splashing from the potholes.
My first night started in a Belgian beer bar which doubles as a pizzeria, conveniently located right at the doorstep of my hostel, in the same courtyard. The pizza was actually very nice, and the first non-Chinese food I had in 5 weeks. This area, called Sanlitun, is full of expats, foreign travelers like me, and Chinese tourists. I'm constantly being harassed by people trying to sell me dvd's or drugs, trying to drag me to a 'lady bar', and by prostitutes who just grab your arm and list all the things they can do for you. Very annoying!
To escape the steet, I entered a friendly looking small club, named Kai, where some local students and some foreign travellers where hanging out, with beer and shooters, and a German dj playing everything from drum&bass to Chinese pop. It was a cool place, and the first time I danced since I left Amsterdam.

Next morning I woke up so late, I missed the Mongolian embassy opening hours again! I had checked the options for travel to Ulaanbaatar already, and was quite disappointed to find out that I could not get a train ticket. All booked up for more than a week ahead. I should have prepared my trip better, and booked my train ticket from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar last week in Chengdu, where I had the time. Now I have to pay at least 5 times as much for a plane ticket, and also miss a very scenic train ride! Stupid me!

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